Merino wool has a reputation for being difficult to care for, and some of that reputation is earned. Wash it wrong once and a sweater that cost ¥30,000 can come out of the machine the size of a child's garment. But the rules are simple and, once understood, easy to follow. This is a short guide to washing merino at home without incident.
01 Why merino felts when washed incorrectly
Wool fibres have a microscopic scale structure on their surface. When exposed to heat and agitation simultaneously, these scales interlock and cannot be separated. The result is felting: the fibres compress into a dense, shrunken mat that cannot be reversed. This is the same process used deliberately to make boiled wool, which is why a boiled wool coat is so dense and wind-resistant.
The two conditions that cause felting are heat and agitation. Remove either one and the risk drops significantly. A cold wash with minimal agitation will not felt merino. A hot wash in a standard cycle almost certainly will.
02 The correct washing method
Hand washing is the safest method. Fill a basin with cold water, add a small amount of wool-specific detergent, and submerge the garment. Gently press the water through the fabric without wringing or twisting. Rinse in cold water of the same temperature, press out the excess water by folding the garment against the side of the basin, and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
If you use a machine, use the wool or delicate cycle at 30 degrees or below, with a slow spin. Do not use a standard detergent. Do not tumble dry. The machine method works for most merino knitwear, but hand washing is more reliable for heavier gauge pieces.
- Cold water only, 30 degrees maximum
- Wool-specific detergent, small amount
- No wringing or twisting
- Press water out gently against the basin
- Lay flat to dry, reshape while damp
- Never tumble dry
03 Storage between seasons
Merino should be stored folded, not hung. Hanging a knit garment on a hanger for several months will stretch the shoulder and distort the shape. Fold it loosely and store in a breathable cotton bag or a drawer. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets will deter moths without the chemical smell of mothballs.
Before storing for summer, wash the garment. Moths are attracted to the proteins in body oils and perspiration left in the fibres, not to clean wool. A garment stored clean is significantly less likely to be damaged.
The ribbed merino turtleneck in the current collection is a heavier gauge than many merino knits. If you have questions about care before buying, write to us, and always follow the label on the garment.